H&C Acryla-Deck and Sika Self-Leveling Sealant: Pool Deck Repair

I recently did some major repair work on my pool deck and wanted to share the results.

Inputs

• Fiberglass pool, roughly 12'x24'
• Pool deck was badly cracked and separated from the pool
• Existing mastic and/or caulking was completely separated
• 17 gallons of Acryla-Deck, deep base
• 3 tubes of Sika Self-Leveling Sealant, large tube, 29 oz
• 1/2" and 3/8" nap rollers
• 3" purdy XL sash brush
• Electric Power Washer
• Leaf Blower
• Razor blades, a lot of them
• 3M Scotch Brite Scouring Pad
• Total cost in materials, approximately $900.
• Note:  The Acryla-Deck was on sale

The Main Ingredients

The Results

I've included below a few pictures of the results. After that, I'll go over the steps that I followed and I'll include any tips.  For each of the photos below, the before will appear first, followed by the finished result.

Full View

Cracks and Mastic Repair

More cracks repair

Against the pool deck

I wasn't able to accurately find the "after" picture which matched this before picture.  The one shown below as a close as I could find.  The crack at the "after" location was almost a 1/2", which resulted in a lot of Sika at that point.  You can see where a bit of the Sika flowed onto the pool deck.  In the photo, it looks like a major issue, but it is hardly noticeable, without looking closely.

Steps

Step 1:  Removed as much of the existing silicone and mastic as possible using a razor blade utility knife.  I was careful not to touch the fiberglass pool surface with the blade, but got as close as possible.  On the other side, I cut right up to the concrete.  A razor blade wouldn't last more than a couple feet, cutting against the concrete, I changed these out very often.

Step 2:  Used a 3M scrubbing pad and water to scrub the remaining silicone off of the fiberglass pool side.

Step 3:  Used a small shop vac to vacuum the cracks around the pool as well as those which were across the pool deck.

Step 4:  Applied self-leveling sealant to all cracks.  The crack in my pool deck were so large, that I had to apply the sealant across 3 or 4 days.  Working with self-leveling sealant was possibly the most challenging and laborious part of the project.  The sealant is not much thicker than water.  I cut a small opening in the tip, and carried a towel the whole time.  To stop applying sealant and move from one stop to another, you have to release the caulking gun AND clog the tip with a towel.  I used foam backer for some areas, and for others I injected some silicone sealant, to serve as a backer.

Note:  I'm not sure that use of silicone as a backer is officially supported.  If you choose this option, be sure that the silicone is only injected deep into the crack, serving only as a backer.  If the silicone were to be applied higher in the crack, it may prevent the self-leveling sealant from bonding to the concrete properly.

Self-leveling sealant does not touch up well.  When you apply additional sealant, you have to apply it across the whole area that you want to seal.  It will not level with itself very well.  Again, this was very challenging.  I recommend starting with a few cracks that are not near your pool, to be sure you can get the hang of it.

Step 5:  Used a 2030 psi electric pressure washer to clean the pool deck.  It may have been best to pressure wash the deck before sealing it, but my deck wasn't too dirty.  I did not use any cleaner or soap.

Step 6:  Started working with the Acryla Deck.  This stuff was really hard to find.  I had to go to 5 Sherwin Williams stores to get enough for my project.  First step, cut in around the pool deck.  Next, used a 1/2" nap roller to apply the first coat.  The first coat took A LOT of paint.  I used a bucket/roller.  I would dip the roller and not rake it, and then scrub it in.  Each dip seemed to cover about 3 sq ft.  The instructions tell you to roll the first coat in one direction and then roll the second coat perpendicular to the first.  Instead, I rolled mine in the two directions for every coat.

Step 7:  It rained.  And it rained...  and the worms came out.  And then things dried out, and the worms dried out, and I ended up with A LOT of stuck, dried worms on the deck.

Step 8:  Used a 2030 psi electric pressure washer to clean off the worms.  For a while, I tried the pressure washer combined with a scrub brush, but I found out that this harmed the first coat, and I ended up with marks.  After realizing this, I just used the pressure washer and a lot of water.

Step 9:  Applied the second and third coats, cut in 1 more time.

Step 10:  Somehow, I ended up with a color variation and discovered that the color of the cut in did not match what I had rolled.  Over this project, I had to search out and purchase 17 gallons of Acryla-Deck from several different locations at several different times.  Ideally, you should accurately estimate the paint needed and buy it all at once and box it together.  In my case, the project took almost 3x the amount of paint that I expected, and no one store ever had 17 gallons in stock.  Anyways, the last step was to cut in one last time.

The Results

In summary, I'm very happy with the result.  I definitely did not consider the full range of products available for this.  Instead, I just selected products that I thought would be sufficient and would be readily available.  So far, it looks great.  Also, the cool feel Acryla-Deck is effective.  I have measured a 20 degree difference in surface temperature for the Acryla-Deck painted surface vs. unpainted concrete surfaces which are nearby.

If I were to do this over again, I would further research my choice of concrete sealant.  The self-leveling sealant produced a great looking finish, in most cases, but it was very challenging to work with and it didn't touch up easily.

Are new motorcycle tires slippery?

Short answer (my opinion): No.

This past week, I put new Pirelli Sport Demons on my son's 2005 Ninja 500R  The receipt from the shop stated: 

WARNING!  Ride SLOW and with CAUTION, New tires are slippery.  Not Liable for Damages or Injurys.

Hmm...

• What is the exact meaning and what are the implications of this warning?
• Why are new tires slippery?  
• What is the specific point at which new tires will have the equivalent grip as old tires?

As a start, the warning from my bike shop (above) was clearly intended to be a release of liability.

What's missing on my receipt is any exclusion of time or action for which the "new tire" condition exists.  What, are they trying to say that my old tires had better grip, and I'll have to wait until my new tires are old before they'll have the same grip?

I was sure this is not the case, and I set out to find an answer.

First off, I visited web sites for motorcycle tire manufacturers.  If the slippery new tire condition exists, I'm certain that the lawyers for tire manufacturers would include a very specific disclaimer.

The only tire manufacturer I could find to provide an opinion on the matter was Dunlop.  They list the following on the FAQ page at http://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/care/faq/.

How much run-in should I give a new tire?

When new tires are fitted, they should not be subjected to maximum power or hard cornering until a reasonable run-in distance of approximately 100 miles has been achieved.

This is necessary for a number of reasons. Replacements for worn tires with different patterns and construction will not react the same. Also, a new tire is stiffer than an old tire. The new tire has a rounder tread profile, different contact patch and “lean-over edge” than the worn profile of an old tire. The new tire will also not react the same in combination with its remaining tire.

Carrying out the required run-in will allow you to become accustomed to the “feel” of the new tires and tire combinations, so you are better able to achieve optimum road grip for use in high speed, high acceleration and handling situations.

So, what are they trying to say?  I don't think they are saying that new tires are slippery at all.  In fact, I don't even see the word slippery.  In my view, they are simply saying that new tires are going to be different than your old tires and consequently will handle differently.  This is a far different scenario than tires which are slippery.

So should I be careful riding on new tires?  Absolutely.  Are they slippery?  I don't think so.

The test:  I took my son's bike for a ride, still thinking about these new, slippery tires.  I thought about all the discussion posts from folks who "low sided" their bike riding out of the motorcycle shop parking lot or turning at an intersection.

Well, I thought about them for all of 15 minutes of riding.  Soon after, I ducked into a parking lot and I was doing cone weaves and the sort.  Not on purpose, but I had completely forgotten about these slippery tires after only about 20 miles!  Did I crash?  Nope.

So what about folks who claim to crash their bike right out of the tire shop parking lot, "low side" it making a simple left hand turn at an intersection, or crash simply driving around the neighborhood?  I have no idea.  My best guess is that the tires actually had better or different grip vs. what the rider was expecting.  Or, perhaps they're just inexperienced riders.

I have read that a "heat cycle" is required in order for new tires to break-in and thus lose their slippery-ness.  But, precisely how hot do my new tires need to get and for how long?  What if I get new tires in the winter (and I did)?  While the heat cycle theory seems reasonable, I could not find any basis for this from tire manufacturers.  Again, if this is required, I'm fairly certain that smart lawyers from the tire manufacturers would include this very clearly.  I have read (and I can't find the link now) that heat cycles are required for racing tires because of the type of rubber from which they are made.

As always, do your research and make your own decision, but I'm convinced that new tires are not slippery.

Rivet RK Racing 520xso chain master link

I've listed below the tools and steps I used recently to replace the chain and sprockets on my son's 2005 Ninja 500R.  I've read numerous guides and each one adds a little bit of knowledge.  Please do not use this post as your only guide.  I recommend using cyclepedia.com for more information and torque specs.

Tools and parts

RK Racing 520xso chain and sprocket set.

Xgunion Motorcycle Bike Chain Breaker Splitter Link Riveter Riveting Repair Set Tool Kit.  This was a $30 set, and it did the job for me.  If I were to purchase a more expensive tool, I'd go for the tool made by RK racing because I believe the rivet tool is designed to more easily and reliably rivet the RK masterlink.

Neiko 01407A Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra-Large LCD Screen, 0-6 Inches.  You'll need this if you want to confirm that the master link is properly riveted.

Angle grinder.  You may also be able to use a dremel.

You'll also need hand tools such as metric socket set, allen wrench socket (for the rear caliper), torque wrenches (1/4" and 1/2").

I've included below the high level steps that I followed.  However, I recommend that you follow one of the more thorough tutorials, linked below.

Step 1:  Watch these videos so that you get a visual of the steps (links courtesy of ex-500.com)

• Overview of chain tool 
• Chain & Sprocket Removal Part 1 
• Chain & Sprocket Removal Part 2 
• Chain & Sprocket Install Part 1 
• Chain & Sprocket Install Part 2

Step 2:  Review the following blogs which describe the process.

• http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php?title=Installing_a_New_Chain_and_Sprockets
• http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php?title=Chain_and_Sprocket_Installation

Step 3:  Loosen the sprocket bolts

Place the transmission in neutral and use a short board to prevent the back wheel from turning.  Loosen the bolts holding the front and rear sprockets.  I also had to have an assistant hold the rear brake so that I could loosen some of the rear sprocket bolts.

Step 4:  Use your angle grinder to cut the existing chain off the bike.  

You can also use the angle grinder to grind the heads flat one of the chain links and use the chain tool to push them out.  I did try that at first, but I didn't trust my budget chain tool to be sturdy enough to push the pins through on the stock chain.

Step 5:  Remove the rear wheel

Remove the rear muffler and disconnect the rear brake caliper.  Use some wire to hang the caliper.  Remove the rear axle nut and push the axle out.  I used a long steel punch to push the axle out.

Step 6:  Clean the rear wheel and replace the rear sprocket

I used tape to seal off the innards of the hub and used only mild soap and water.  It was very rewarding to get all of this cleaned up!  

Install the new rear sprocket.  No need to completely tighten the bolts until the wheel is back on the bike.

Step 7:  Replace the front sprocket and clean the sprocket housing.

Be sure that you install the front sprocket facing the right way.  Use the photos from the tutorials above if you aren't sure.  No need to completely tighten the sprocket bolts until the chain is reattached.

Step 8:  Install the rear wheel

Apply a thin coating of grease to the rear axle bolt.  You'll need to be sure that the wheel spacers are all in place, line them up, and push the axle bolt through.  I had a helper; this would be difficult to do on your own.  Adjust the chain adjusters so that the wheel slides all the way to the front.

You can now put the brake caliper and muffler back in place.  The brake caliper bolts go on fairly tight.  I used a torque wrench and torque specs from cyclepedia.com to be sure.

Using a board, or a friend to hold the rear brake, torque the rear sprocket bolts.

Tighten the front sprocket bolts.  The front bolts are very small and do not require a lot of torque.  The torque setting was too small for my smallest torque wrench, so I just snugged it up.

Step 9:  Install the new chain and master link

Feed the new chain through until both ends of the new chain are next to each other on the rear sprocket.  This position makes it easy to install the master link.  

Use your caliper to measure the diameter of the master link pin.  My 520xso master link measured 5.23 mm.  You'll need this initial width in order to confirm that the flare is wide enough.

Slide the master link on, along with o-rings.  The RK masterlink came pre-greased, apply grease if your master link requires it.

Use the press plate on your chain tool to press the side plate of the master link onto the new pins.  You must be sure that the holes on the press plate are not covering the pins of the master link!!  With my chain tool, it was difficult to get lined up properly.  Be patient and take your time.  You must be careful not to over-press the plates!

Use your caliper to measure the distance between the existing plates on your chain and compare that with your master-link plates.  Go slow and measure often.  When you're finished, confirm that the chain is not binding on either side of the master-link.

Step 10:  Flare the master link rivets

This was the most difficult step for me.  On my first try, I over-flared and cracked the rivet.

If you, like me, ruined your first master link:  Wrap a plastic bag around the chain to the left and right of the master link.  Use your grinder to grind the master link rivets flat and use the chain tool to push them through.  Head down to the store and buy another master-link.  Better yet, buy two master-links so that you can practice with one, off the chain.

When you're ready to rivet the master link, apply the correct fittings for your chain tool and press the rivet tool into the pin head.  Tighten the tool only 1/2 turn at a time.  Remove, measure the flare width, and go again.  It takes a while.

The maintenance and tips section of the RK site (http://rkexcelamerica.com/support/maintenance-and-tips or https://www.facebook.com/RkCambodiaTakasagoChain/photos/a.1437105633264470/1450144325293934/?type=1&theater) states "The flare can be as little as 0.152mm to 0.5mm but should never be over 0.7mm. The rivet pin should be flared just enough to keep the sideplate on, but not flared too much to bind the link."

Since, the initial width of my pin measured 5.23 mm, the minimal flare would be 5.23+0.152 = 5.38 mm.  My flared pins measured at 5.47 mm and 5.58 mm and appear as shown below.  The link above, from the RK site, includes more photos of proper and improper flares.

Step 11:  Tension the chain and torque the rear axle bolt.

When you're finished, be sure to rotate the wheel, on the center stand in neutral, to confirm that the chain is operating properly before going for a test ride.

Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic Rider Course Acworth, Ga.

I took the Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic Rider Course in Acworth, Ga. recently with my 17 year old son.  I thought I'd share a few tips and perspective that I could not find online myself.  Also, I've included a few links below which I found helpful.

The course is amazing and well worth the money.  Those who have not ridden before can take this course before having purchased a bike!  As they say in the course, motorcycling is not for everyone.  This course is a great low cost option to find out if you want to get a bike.  New riders, those who had never ridden a bike or operated a manual transmission, made amazing progress and passed the assessments at the end.  Formerly experienced riders (like me) learned many critical skills that are difficult to pick up on your own.

For me, the most valuable skill that I learned was counter-steering.  20 years ago I went into a right hand curve at 60+ mph and rode the yellow line all the way around, battling to stay on my side of the road, with oncoming traffic (scary).  I was dumbfounded, not understanding why I couldn't get the bike to lean further and get off the yellow line.  The bike I was on should have been able to take that turn at that speed, and I had been riding for 3-4 years.  I quit riding shortly after and didn't figure it out until I recently learned to counter-steer.

We spent 4-5 hours in the classroom (I wasn't timing it).  Classroom time consists of reading assigned sections of the class workbook, 2-3 paragraphs at a time, and verbally summarizing it.  The instructor discusses real world experiences to help illustrate the workbook.

We were on the range by 10:30 on our first day.

Choose a motorcycle that fits you.  The largest bikes are 250cc, and I believe there were several 125cc.  These are all small bikes.  There were 3 or 4 cruiser style bikes, and I think they are the most difficult among the set.  If you have some experience, I recommend that you choose one of the cruisers and have the less experienced riders take the others.

The photo below shows the bikes.  I remember the cruisers as GZ250's and a Rebel 250.  There was a Nighthawk 250, TU250x, I don't recall the others.  I'm sure these will vary by course location and over time, but these were the bikes at the Acworth location.  I really enjoyed riding the GZ 250, but (I think) it required a lot more counterbalancing than the others to make some of the tight turns.

All of the riding exercises are clearly described by the instructors and then everyone rehearses the activity before starting the bike.  For example, if the next range exercise would include turning, then they would have you get on the bike, without it running, and practice turning the wheel.  

At first, I found it difficult to make sense of the course.  It's a large parking lot with lots of lines on it that you have to ignore, because they are not part of the current exercise, and there are small orange and green cones which make up the current course.  At first, I couldn't even see the cones, but I acclimated over time.

One of the rider coaches will ride the course to show everyone how it's done.  Be sure to find a spot where you can see exactly what they're doing and ask questions if you don't understand.

Listen carefully to each instruction.  The instructors will be giving some fairly precise steps such as - grab the front brake before mounting the motorcycle, turn your wheel to the left after leaning the bike on it's stand, use the engine kill switch (and not the key) to turn the bike off.  Also, pay attention to when you should have your helmet and gloves on vs. when it's ok to have them off.  It holds the class up if you took your gear off and have to put it back on.  The instructors will call you out if you're not following basic instructions and are holding up the class.  

You need to be 100% attentive and following instructions during time on the riding range.  Some people simply don't do well with coaching and following instructions.  If you're one of those, then consider private lessons and take the skills test on your own.

As I'm sure you know, the course concludes with a riding assessment and a written test.  I highly recommend that you go into the course for the purpose of learning to ride and do not think about the assessment at the end.  If you must, the riding test at the end consisted of riding a figure 8 in a rectangular box (see link below), a swerve test, emergency stop, riding through two curves, one small 90 degree curve followed by a larger curve, which I think was 120 degrees.  You will have time to practice all of the exercises before taking the test.

Here are some resources that I found helpful:

• Beat the box:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGCgbEID83U
• View of the MSF from a Go Pro:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RU-52fqy9yQ
• The seven most common MSF student rider fails:  https://rideapart.com/articles/7-common-msf-student-rider-fails
• BRC Course Review (48 questions): http://www.msf-usa.org/BRCQuiz.aspx#/H3w0CSdF1x/PlnH05KLo1/SfsW80tFCk
• How to turn a motorcycle properly (counter-steering): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlc1bGPTR3c 

In summary, the course was top notch.  The instructors were highly attentive and consistent, and they kept the course moving efficiently and safely.  Tom and Theresa were perfect, and I hope you can get these same instructors.  I learned important riding skills, and...  it was a lot of fun!  Feel free to comment if I can help answer any questions based on my experience.